Looking Back: Japan Solo Travel - Day 6 & 7: Yudanaka

DAY 6 - Short visit to Kanda University & en-route to Nagano

The day was started with a visit to the Kanda University, one of the best universities in Japan for international studies, to meet up with a friend of mine. We met up at the JR Makuharihongo station, where she gave me a clear direction on how to get to the university by bus. What I noticed about the university was that it was rather close to the bay, hence the powerful gale coming from the bay. Aside from that, the university complex was huge and dominated by glass panels to give it an open feel it. I had a truly wonderful time there, as my friend gave me a brief tour around the university and introduced me to some of her friends, who were, needless to say, very welcoming, friendly, and hilarious.

We, however, didn’t have all the time in the world since they had their classes coming, and I also had to catch the 5 pm shinkansen from Tokyo station leaving for Nagano. After bidding farewell, I immediately found myself once again at the Tokyo station, waiting for the shinkansen that would take me to Nagano.

Ever seen televisions on display at electronic stores showing a group of monkeys that would soak themselves in a hot spring in the dead cold of winter? The minute I saw it and figured out where it was, I instantly decided that making it to the Jigokudani Monkey Park in Yamanouchi, Nagano was gonna be on my bucket list when visiting Japan.

Nonetheless, it was by no means a close distance between Yamanouchi and Tokyo. It took nearly three hours including a transfer onto the Nagano Electric Railway, otherwise known as Nagaden, whose massive windows allow the passengers to admire the beautiful scenery of rural Japan, or at the very least, that is what they are supposed to do. Sadly, it was almost eight in the evening, and I knew very well I wouldn’t be able to see anything beyond the windows. Flickering lights and my own reflection were all I could see! I would be lying if I said that there was never a moment of hesitation there, for, by the time the train got to its third last stop, I realized I was the only one on the whole train.

I finally arrived at the Yudanaka station super late, around 10 pm, so not many people were still roaming around the area. Everyone was either inside or six feet under the snow.

The ryokan I stayed in was called Yudanaka Seifuso, and I strongly recommend staying at this hostel whenever you come to Yudanaka to see the snow monkeys. The ryokan had three indoor hot spring baths, including a private bath and an apple bath, and an outdoor bath. They also offer us a breakfast set and dinner set for a very affordable price, yet still making sure we eat like a king. Though my room was no way near lavish and ostentatious, being able to warm myself up by the heater and pour for myself a cup of tea whilst enjoying a sweet green tea-flavored, the mochi-like cake was more than I could ever be grateful for.

Since dinner time had passed at the ryokan, they sadly couldn’t accept any more dinner orders, so they suggested that I get my dinner outside. I was told that at such a late hour no other restaurants or food stalls were still open aside from the izakaya near the hostel. It was probably not more than eight buildings away. At that hour and in that kind of weather, going out in a hoodie was stupidity, but in a yukata was pure insanity! Walking into the izakaya, I looked like the most ludicrous person ever thanks to a pair of Reebok sneakers to match my yukata.

I got myself a bowl of ramen and gyoza and gobbled them down quickly cause I was starving like hell. I can’t remember how the ramen tasted, but the gyoza was fantastic, flaky on one side, chewy on the other side, and the pork filling -- explosive. I had expected, frankly, less from a random izakaya that was in the middle of nowhere.

While waiting for the food and after I had finished my food, I somehow got engaged in a conversation with the other customers, some of whom were slightly inebriated, and the shop owner himself. They mentioned that they were all locals and added that it was exceedingly rare for them to encounter a foreign tourist. Again, this was early 2014, when traveling to remote areas in Japan was not as popular as it probably is now. They recommended me a long list of must-visit spots in Japan, and I told them that I would be more than happy to visit them if I had a chance to do so in the future.

I dragged my feet back to the ryokan, took a refreshing bath, and was out like a light as soon as my head was in contact with the pillow. The ryokan owner was so nice that he offered to give me a lift to the entrance of the Jigokudani Monkey Park, which otherwise would take more than 30 minutes or so to get there by foot.

DAY 7 - Nagano, Yudanaka

There are three main reasons for visiting Yamanouchi, which is located in the northern Nagano Prefecture, during winter: to see the snow monkeys, to go skiing, or to enjoy an indulgent bathing experience at the Shibu Onsen. Since I was not a big fan of skiing, or should I say, I can’t ski, and the ryokan I stayed in already provided us several hot spring baths to choose from, the snow monkeys became my sole point of interest.

I woke up at 8 am and had probably the most wonderful breakfast I’ve ever had in Japan. The meal felt festive as a warm bowl of rice came with oodles of side dishes. There were seaweed, grilled salmon, egg roll, bean curd with miso, pickles, greens, ham, and miso soup with generous fillings. A tray full of several condiments and a tea set was situated next to the food tray to add a finishing touch to the parade.

Soon as I finished my breakfast and had my luggage stored at the front desk, the ryokan owner cordially and generously took me to the Monkey Park’s main entrance. The drive took about 10 minutes going through a heavily snow-covered neighborhood, whose residents were already astir at such an hour.

If you think you can immediately see the monkeys as soon as you pass the welcome board, you are very much mistaken because to see the monkeys we still need to walk 1.6km uphill for about 25 minutes. Make sure you don’t have your wires crossed.

The path was winding, freezing, and narrow. It was flanked by a forest of towering trees that were surmounted by silky white snow. There was also local wildlife, and I was able to spot some, like squirrels, hares, and a flock of birds.

On the way, you could spot local wildlife, like squirrels, hares, and birds. Midway, there stood an old yet modern ryokan called the Korakukan.

When I arrived at the pool, what I quickly noticed was a swarm of, not the monkeys, but photographers with their expensive-looking cameras flocking around the pool where the monkeys were. The monkeys are said to always be there year-round; nevertheless, it is only during winter when they are most photogenic. Well, I couldn’t blame these people. The monkeys though seemed to completely ignore humans, although they still wouldn’t allow visitors to touch them. In fact, feeding and touching the monkeys are strictly prohibited.

It was somehow oddly soothing to simply observe them sitting peacefully in the pool. It was funny how they just stayed still in the hot spring despite the many cameras.

When I was about to exit the park, I noticed something quite peculiar. It was a collaboration poster between the monkey park and my favorite video game, Monster Hunter!

Getting back to the ryokan was somewhat frustrating since I had to walk back to the entrance, find a bus station (bus stations were scarce and buses operated infrequently), and wait for the bus to come. Don’t be surprised by how many people actually slipped and fell to the ground on the way to the bus station since the icy street was so damn slippery.

Here is a little snowman I randomly made while waiting for the bus.

A crisis emerged when I realized that I had no small change to pay the fare. I hesitantly asked the driver if he had a change for a ten thousand note, to which he replied that I didn’t have to pay. How nice of him!

These were the views taken from the bus: Not so great, but oh well.

After saying a million thanks to the bus driver, I finally got back at the ryokan I was staying in, checked out, grabbed my luggage, bid farewell to my super nice host, and made way to the station.

At the station, when the train that was going to take me to the Nagano station came, I realized that it wasn’t just the monkey park that was having a promotional collaboration with Monster Hunter; quite possibly it was the Yudanaka city that organized the promotional campaign. The train was legit the coolest ever!

I also received an apple from the super nice host at the ryokan, though I didn’t get to taste it since I gave it to one of the hostel staff.

After I settled down at my hostel once again, I still had some time to kill before retiring, and so I guided my feet to Harajuku and had kaiten sushi for dinner at Sushi Heroku before calling it a day.

Day 6 Expenses

1 night at Yudanaka Seifuso 4500 yen

Lunch: Ekiben 550 yen

Dinner at izakaya 980 yen

Day 7 Expenses

Breakfast at the ryokan 1,000 yen

Monkey Park Admission fee 800 yen

Lunch: Bento 350 yen

Dinner at Sushi Heroku: 2000 yen