Looking Back: Japan Solo Trip - Day 4: Kyoto (Second Day)
The only thing that deterred me from going out earlier on this fourth day was the unbearably cold weather, along with the enticing warmth of my bed that kept pulling me back again and again and casting some magical spell that prevented me from opening my eyelids. I had planned a simple schedule of what to do each day so that I could capitalize on the limited time I had as well as possible, yet I woke up at 11 that day while I was supposed to be awake at 8. So, what to do? Improvise and play it by ear! Oh, the joy of traveling alone with no restriction, save for your own personal one.
Quite honestly I have a vague recollection of how it went in the morning (I bought another bus pass from the hostel reception of course) before I made my way to the Fushimi Inari shrine. If you have been on Instagram or practically on the internet long enough, you may have seen those quaint Japan pictures of a long line of torii gates - bright red traditional gates that are commonly found at Shinto shrines. Well, that is exactly where I was heading.
To get there, you can make your way through the JR Nara Line from the Kyoto Station, and you will be in the Inari Station in 5 minutes. The shrine itself is right outside the Inari Station.
I overheard (more like eavesdropping) a tour guide's explanation of the origin of the shrine. Fushimi Inari is said to be dedicated to the Shinto god of rice, Inari, and his messengers or servants take the shape of foxes, hence the innumerable fox statues across the shrine.
While the main shrine buildings were also beautiful, it was the torii gate-covered hiking trail across the Inari mountain that really captivated me, and most probably other visitors.
Though it wasn't much of "real" hiking, as there were stairs, I have to say that trekking up was quite a feat. It took me almost 3 hours hiking to the summit and going back again. Not to mention, I noticed that most people around me were equipped with some sort of a walking stick; meanwhile, I was only equipped with sheer curiosity and zeal.
The trail was actually enjoyable as it wasn't too crowded and the nature vibe was still nicely preserved.
These torii gates are apparently donations from various companies and individuals. These two torii gates in the picture below for example were donated by the Sumiya company and Keesue company.
There was a lake after going up for probably 15 minutes, and there were restaurants and shops along the way.
Forty-five minutes uphill and I finally arrived at the Yotsutsuji Intersection. This is where visitors can rest and enjoy some snacks from the stalls around before continuing to go further up to the summit. The views over Kyoto can be enjoyed from here. Though it was a dreary and bleak day, I was fortunate enough to be able to enjoy the view. Still, the views will be way more mind-blowing in spring or autumn when the sky is clear.
From here, the track splits into two, forming a circular route into the summit.
The journey to the summit continued after a brief repose. Along the trail, I noticed that there were some smaller shrines where visitors could stop to pay respect, give offerings, and maybe take a break. They were marked with numbers, from 1-14, with number 14 being the final post and the summit.
Amusingly, I kept on walking, unaware that it was the summit, and on until I finally realized that I was going back to where I started - the Yotsutsuji Intersection. Ongoing down, my mind had actually posed a question to myself repeatedly: "Why the heck am I descending?". Well, since I hadn't taken any pictures of the summit, I had to go back up once again.
Along the trail, you can find oodles of souvenir shops and restaurants mainly specializing in kitsune udon and inari sushi. I stopped at one on the way back and had kitsune udon for my super late brunch. Kitsune udon comes with sweet fried tofu skin that served as the main topping of the udon.
Fun fact! Kitsune in Japanese means fox! BOOM
I had made an appointment with my friend whom I had met at J-hoppers that I would wait for her at the Starbucks in Kyoto station before making our way to Kiyomizu temple, a spot not to be missed when visiting Kyoto. However, since I still had plenty of time before the appointed time, I headed to the Ryoanji Temple, home to the most beautiful rock gardens in the whole of Japan.
The Kyoto city bus 205 will take you directly to the site.
When I arrived there, I thought that the place was already closed because the place was so quiet, but when I asked the lady at the entrance gate, she told me that it was open and it was always relatively quiet there as most visitors will refrain themselves from chattering out loud. And, so must I.
The rock garden was amazing. I just sat there on the wooden floor of the building, chilling out, and enjoying the tranquility and serenity it gave off. I really took my time there, playing with my phone and trying to take awesome shots of the garden, which of course failed miserably.
The time showed 4 pm and my appointment was at 5 pm, so I had to part ways with the rock garden and go back to the Kyoto station.
It was somewhat difficult to tell her where I was waiting precisely due to the fact that we were communicating through Facebook messenger and that she didn't have any pocket wifi with her, meaning no internet connection. Fortunately, we were able to meet up, and we began our short excursion to the famous Kiyomizu Dera ((temple).
A short 15-minute bus drives on the Raku Bus 100 and we had arrived at one of the UNESCO world heritage sites.
This temple is vast and massive! Its main hall, which towers up 13 meters from the hillside becomes the main attraction. The maple trees and cherry trees shrouding the slope and around the temple are a spectacle by themselves during autumn and spring as the maple and cherry trees change colors and bloom.
We managed to find the Ottowa Waterfall though, a small temple-like spot where three streams of water flow from three small channels above into the pool below. You are expected to take one of the provided cups, attached to a long pole and use it to take the flowing water to drink it.
In stark contrast to the Ryoanji temple, Kiyomizu is always crowded with visitors. We had thought that we would be somewhat lucky not to have to wait a long line at the Ottowa waterfall since it was pretty dark already. We were very much mistaken, however, when we saw that there was still a long line forming at the waterfall. (It was so dark that we couldn't take clear pictures at all)
On our way back, we intentionally turned right towards the Higashiyama district. Again, since it was already very late, there weren't that many shops and restaurants that were still open and not much spectacle to see as a result, very much different from when I came back there in the spring of 2016 - bustling, lively, and picturesque. Luckily, we managed to spot some geishas in their opulent kimonos and traditional getas, who was pacing quickly from one end of the street to another before disappearing into one of the alleys.
There is this snack/ condiment shop specializing in togarashi, chili powder, and some other snacks, which usually already contain one of their special chili powder products, that I really love and always come back to whenever I visit Kyoto.
The day was then ended by a healthy bowl of rich tonkatsu ramen at a ramen shop that we accidentally stumbled upon while trying to figure out our way back to the hostel. It will always be one of my all-time favorite ramens; sadly, Nobody knows the name of the restaurant. :( And maybe I will never be able to return there.
Going on a trip with someone that you've just made acquaintance with, sharing experiences with them, and being able to stay in touch with them was a completely new yet wonderful experience for me. If you're lucky you may find those who are eager to share their thoughts and insights, which can prolly inspire you.
This friend of mine, for example, told me that it'd be wise not to take pictures of people praying at shrines or the geishas as it feels disruptive and that we should pay more respect to their privacy, to which I responded with a shameful nod as I had already taken a pic of such during my visit to the Kitano Tenmangu shrine just a day before.
Sorry Caitlin >_<
Day 4 Expenses:
Brunch: Kitsune Udon 700 yen
Fushimi Inari entrance fee Free
Ryoanji entrance fee 500 yen
Kiyomizudera adm fee 400 yen
Dinner 770 yen